Kilian Fischhuber fresco di due vittorie nelle prime due gare di coppa del mondo boulder, si racconta in un’intervista esclusiva (rilasciata in inglese).

Kilian Fischhuber
1st August 1983

Competitions:
1. IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) – Greifensee (SUI) 2010 14.05.2010
2. M E N lead: CISM Winter Military World Games – Courmayeur (ITA) 2010 21.03.2010
1. ROCKMASTER – Arco (ITA) 2005-2008-2009
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) 2004 (2°)-2005-(1°) 2006-(2°) 2007-2008-2009 (1°)

Routes:
Bumaye 8c+ RP Margalef
Dolby Surround 8c+ RP Zillertal
Action Directe 9a RP Frankenjura
Thai Chi 8c Flash (2004) Lorüns

Boulders:
Sky 8b+ RP Rocklands
Memento 8b+ Silvretta
Dreamtime 8b+ Cresciano

Ciao Kilian! The season just begun in the best possible way! How do you feel?
I feel somehow relieved. I started the season 2009 with a 23rd place, actually my worst result ever and this year it has started much better, as you said in the best possible way. I am also happy, of course!

You’ve been shocking us with an impressing steadiness of results since quite a few years now. We’d like to know how you manage it…how did you prepare this world cup season?
I think my steadiness is a result of my versatility. I can boulder hard on any angle and surface ad I do not prefere a certain set of holds. I like the diversity of bouldering and it seems as if it likes me too… I have trained as usual: In the gym in Innsbruck and on the cliffs around the city.

Innsbruck and it’s “school” are unanimously recognised as one of the leading climbing scene in the world. Is this scene important to you? Do you find motivation from your training surroundings?
Of course! The scene is very important and we push each other. It is easy to find a climbing partner and someone who motivates you.

We loved to see you at Melloblocco, as much as we were impressed in seeing you finding an “easy” way out on one of the toughest boulders (Crazy Snake 8b in less than 30 minutes). You have an impressing list of RP both on boulders and on rock, including Action Directe 9a, shortly followed by a quick repetition of Glowacz’s multipitch “Des Kaisers neue Kleider “. How important is climbing on rock to you?
Rock climbing is absolutely essential to my sport. The trips around the world to various bouldering and routeclimbing areas is my motivation but also justification to the endless hours on plastic. Success during competitions have a similar effect.
Climbing is somehow very complex but after doing it for more than 15 years I have realized that I need to indulge into other activities as well. On one hand I try to climb different stuff, such as boulders, routes, multi pitch and competitions and on the other hand I try to focus on my studies and other sports.

How important is for bouldering competitions to be a “vertical allrounder” and to have such a wide range of different physical abilities?
Boulder competitions and the results of them are mainly influenced by the routesetters. The walls usually vary from flat to steep at every comp but the routesetters are like the composers of a play. If they make it dynamic and powerful those climbers who are good at that will win. If we have to climb route-like boulders I am sure that also some routeclimbers can beat the core boulderers. Adam Ondra is an exception to this. He can do both at the same level. I am sure he will challenge me a lot. However, I did not feel any rivalry towards him. He is such an excellent climber and it is fun to see how he solves problems. I hope it is the same for him too!

Your style is clean, without hesitations, powerful and elegant. Is it hard to keep concentrating during a final? How do you manage?
Concentration is just as important as a certain grade of nervosity. Both influence ech other and the climber. I always try to remind myself that my only opponent in a competition is the wall and my goal is to reach the top. Climbing from A to B from start to top. That’s all there is. Doing so AND enjoying it is my aim. It occured twice in my career that I competed at a very important competition, that I had to start last and that I had just one try to fix my victory. I managed it both times. When I think back to that (Vail 2008 and Greifensee 2010) I am more nervous now than I was at that time.

I’ve heard your’re a great skier as well and that you enjoy freeriding during climbing off Seasons. How important is to you to be able to always be in the mountains in its different variations?
I would not call myself a great skier, but thank you anyways! Yes, i like other sports, be it skiing or mountain biking. Doing other things besides climbing gives you more a independent view on the sport and it helps you to reflect yourself critically. Climbing is not everything, yet a lot!

Anna (Stöhr N.d.r.) was 9th in Greifensee. Does it help to share training and competitions with your girlfriend? What would you like to tell her after this last competition?
I usually train and travel with Anna and we can help each other and push each other. I was really sorry for her since she should have been in the finals in my opinion. I hope she can show her real strenght in the following comps!

You’re graduating in physical education. How do you like university?
I study English and Sports (physical education) to become a teacher. At the moment I am at the library, writing about Mark Twain. Some parts of the university education are interesting some less. I hope to finish my studies within the next 3 years.

This year you had a great result in Military World Championships Lead category. Will we soon see you back in Lead World Cups?
I don’t think that I will compete in Lead World Cups soon again. I really like the sport but I am afraid that if i had to train for lead as well i would burn out and start hating training at all. Consequently I would stop also boulder comps and that’s too bad an idea. Let’s stick with bouldering comps and havin’ fun on rock

Kilian, not that we complain about it but…why always KATANA J?
Katana is just my shoe. It is simple and practical. I like the velcro system and the shape of the shoe. I am sure I could climb with Miura VS but why change a winning team?

Did you try Katana Laces? What do you think about them?
Katana Laces are the perfect shoe for vertical or slightly overhanging rocks, just as at the cliffs around Innsbruck. I have used it quite a lot and I will defenitely order another pair soon.

Mr. Kilian Katana, all la Sportiva staff wishes you a very excellent season. See you at Arco Rockmaster for the cake cutting…;-)?
Thanks a lot for your wishes and your confidence. Cutting the cake would be, as always an honour. But let’s see…

Pubblicato il 1 giugno 2010 at 14:22 e archiviato in: Boulder World Cup.
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